This restaurant started out in a very modest premises on East 13th Street, then surprised everyone by moving to some prime real estate in the West Village, and now it's one of the most upscale Peruvian restaurants in town. The bill of fare has been repositioned to emphasize the now-trendy ceviche, a food form that Peruvians can claim partial credit for inventing. The menu deserves credit by not flinching when it comes to serving anticuchos; cow-heart brochettes that constitute a predominant street food in Lima. But many dishes like aji de pollo (chicken in a thick yellow sauce, sometimes called the national dish) are too timid in their spicing.
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