Maria Loi has been called the “Martha Stewart of Greece,” but she's not just a pretty face flashing across the television screen. She's actually clocking in the hours behind the stove (and, OK, gallivanting around the dining room) at her eponymous Upper West Side restaurant. You'll encounter a menu of mostly classic dishes, including a great moussaka, baked Greek cheese, and charred octopus, plus a few modern interpretations like seafood orzo and seared scallops on dill trahana. Not everything works, but it's a good bet before or after a show at Lincoln Center. And, unlike so many eateries these days, it's quiet enough to carry on a conversation with your companions.