This steam-table buffet is mind-bendingly cheap: Four bucks for five items, enough for at least two meals. Peruse your options before you approach one of the stern counter ladies for a serving, as some dishes are decidedly better than others. Look for the black bean tofu-big hunks of fried tofu with gobs of garlic, fermented black beans and ginger. The cold eggplant salad is also a good choice, as is the bean curd skin wrapped around spiced chicken. Lovers of those glazed chunks of fried meat common at Chinese-American joints will find plenty of crispy goodness to keep them occupied.
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