Located in an up-and-coming neighborhood sandwiched between the Upper East Side and East Harlem, Lupita’s is in an area long rife with small Mexican taquerias. The space is narrow, with only two tables, but the size and busyness of the kitchen – along with delicious smells – should tip you off that something wonderful is going on here. Descended from the bare-bones Pueblan taquerias of yesteryear, the place offers a slicker and lusher take on the peasant cuisine. The breakfast dish chilaquiles, for example, features a plate of corn chips individually coated with salsa verde, lots of crumbly cheese, and a pair of perfect fried eggs on top. Common chicken enchiladas with mole poblano has been spruced up, topped with avocado and squiggles of crema, arranged perfectly on the plare. The sauce in itself is remarkable, and rarely has it been so perfectly executed in the city before. How did the food manage to hoist itself higher than any similar establishment in the vicinity?