The awning still reads El Centenario Grocery and Deli, but all the shelves have now been taken out to make way for a fully formed restaurant, an outgrowth of what started as a small taco counter in back of the bodega. The usual standards are here--overstuffed tortas, quesadillas, mole poblano--and they're all solidly well done and cheap. Don't miss the barbacoa (goat) tacos. A large selection of antojitos includes Oaxacan molotes and tlacoyos--torpedo-shaped, thick masa patties stuffed with black bean paste and often topped with crema and your choice of meat.
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