This Korean restaurant takes its table-top barbecue seriously, hoping to cash in on the 'cue craze currently gripping Gotham. To that end, the first item on the extensive meat menu at Madangsui is a prime rib-eye steak, but don't get attached to this beauty, because the waitress heartlessly snips it into small pieces as soon as it begins to sizzle. The portions are about twice the size of comparable establishments on 32nd Street, and several cuts are available in either thick or "micro-thin" versions, which is a particular boon to the brisket. Dip the cooked meat in the saucer of sesame oil and salt, then wrap in it lettuce along with a dab of kim chee or the Korean barbecue sauce called kochujang.
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You probably couldn't fit any more restaurants onto the single block of West 32nd that has comprised Manhattan's Koreatown since the early 1980s. Sure, places have spilled onto the avenues, but for the last couple of years, most of ...