In a Brooklyn backwater wedged between Sunset Park and Dyker Heights, the oldest traditions of Sicilian cooking persist. A monument to poverty food, the pasta fagioli soup is really just the bare essentials-short pasta and white beans, with the cooking water serving as broth. It comes alive when you shake in the dried cheese. The crust on the pizzas is thin and crisp, and the individual-sized nonna, topped with fresh mozzarella and good plum tomatoes, is especially compelling. The decor is similarly engaging-a dried tail from a 131-foot stingray and a framed photo of Rocky Marciano.
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