Sit at the bar and check out the tapas, which reflect the products and sensibilities of the northern Spanish region of Asturias. Favorites include chorizo cooked in cider, blue-veined cabrales cheese, and plates of perfect hand-cut serrano ham, which demand to be washed down with a Ribera del Duero red or a glass of sherry.
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New York has had its share of restaurants, like Umberto's Clam House, that are more notable for gangland murders than for their chow. Meson Asturias is an exception to the rulethough it, too, boasts a famous rubout. One bluste...