It's easy to get excited about a restaurant named Yeah. The Shanghai cooking stretches our ideas about that cuisine with dishes like northern Chinese chicken, a room-temperature bird shredded, mounded on the plate, drizzled with sweet dark sauce, then hidden under a dome of pieced-together skin, sort of Ed Gein-ish. Skip the juicy buns, but savor the Shanghai wonton soup-delicate, pork-filled envelopes that tickle the tongue with little bits of pickled cabbage. Vegetarians can have a field day with dishes like "preserved veg. w. soy bean & tofu sheets" and the mysterious-sounding "thousand pieces cake."
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Chrysanthemum fish ($12.95) is Shanghai cooking's technical tour de force even though it will never become your favorite Chinese dish. Sea bass fillets are crumb-dusted on the skin side, crosshatched on the flesh side, and flash-fri...