This establishment, which bears a familial connection to defunct old-timer Say Eng Look, distinguishes itself from other Shanghai restaurants by reproducing all the standards with superior delicacy: juicy buns crowned with an extra wad of crabmeat, for instance, or cold spiced beef more aromatic than usual. The best entrees make unusual use of tofu: pork sauteed with strips of floppy bean-curd skin, and okra with tofu puffs; clouds of spongy curd that soak up the soothing sauce. The decor will remind you of an operating room.
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