Chef Michael Huynh's dishes tend to show an appetizing and skillful balance between hot, salty, sweet, and bitter, and he's good at deploying zesty flavorings with ultra-rich meats. Although some might say that his Vietnamese food is fancied-up and dumbed-down for a non-Vietnamese audience, you can usually bet that the dishes coming out of his kitchens will be awfully tasty. But now that the restaurateur seems to open a new place every month, maybe it's inevitable that the wheels start coming off the Huynh-mobile. At OBao, the cracks are starting to show--particularly in the form of a "Singapore laksa" that does not remotely deserve the name. Other dishes are much better, particularly stuff that you've seen him do before: A chicken salad perked up with lots of herbs, fish sauce, and lime juice is sprightly and refreshing. Radish cakes stand in for noodles in char kway teow to deliciously chewy effect.