Founded in 1868 when the memory of the Civil War was still fresh in everyone's mind, Old Homestead is the city's oldest steakhouse, and the premises look it: a pair of floors in a rickety building on the northern verge of the Meatpacking District. Twelve steaks are offered, including several sirloins and filet mignons--skip those and go for the "Gotham rib steak on the bone," which arrives pink the in the middle and well charred on the outside. The meat is richly marbled and the flavor totally on the money. Of accoutrements, go for the Caesar salad and creamed spinach, but skip the hash browns in favor of the french--and don't feel bad if the greeter eyeballs you and seats you upstairs. It's much quieter and more clubby up there.
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