And you thought a rice ball was just a pallid lump of grain with a sheet of seaweed wrapped around it? This narrow facility is a laboratory of omusubi, wherein the cooks freely improvise within the canon. The list of 20 or so changes daily, and highlights on a recent visit included a miniature cheese-stuffed salmon patty pressed between two rice "buns" to make a cheeseburger, a samosa-shaped container of nori enfolding rice and shrimp smeared with hot chile paste, and a brown wallet of syrup-brushed fried tofu skin filled with rice, hijiki, and steamed fresh soybeans called "gorgeous football." Go out for a pass!
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