Good dim sum in Manhattan can be found at this Cantonese spot, and the parade of carts will quickly confirm the pristine nature of the product. The shrimp noodles are particularly good, bundled in their rice-starch blankets; they're three to a plate and so gooey you may cast aside your chopsticks and pick up a fork. Also outstanding are the little baked pastries strewn with sesame seeds and filled with pork called char sui soo, and there are just enough daily oddities to keep you returning again and again. But what's with the retrograde name?
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