PAO's limited menu offers a pleasing overview of regional Portuguese cooking. From the Alentejo in the south comes carne de porco a alentejana, a novel combination of pork chunks and small clams unique to Iberia. Native to the Algarve region is a seafood combo steamed in white wine and garlic in a cataplana, a hinged pot that looks like a Valkyrie's brassiere. The most unusual entree is gambas com acorda, five jumbo shrimp with enough sense to leave their exoskeletons on, on a plug of a wonderful bread pudding called acorda. How odd to see jumbo shrimp playing second fiddle to a pile of damp bread.
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