The elegant L-shaped dining room adjacent to Leiv Eriksson Park was formerly oddball fast-food emporium Zeke's Roast Beef. The Cantonese menu is done with greater panache than at some of the marble-clad Sunset Park palaces to the north. On a first visit, we particularly enjoyed the spinach with tofu sauce, which featured pea shoots instead of spinach. Though it had no solid curd, the creamy sauce proved awesome. Also good was a sable steak in black-bean sauce and a roast chicken, house-style, which came doused with sweet soy sauce and heaped with shards of fried garlic.
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