Under the elevated D train, Pastorale is one of the more stranger-friendly formal joints in Brighton Beach-decorated with 18th-century-style French tapestries of sylvan scenes, and slinging pan-Soviet cuisine as banquetteers dance to the throbbing oratorio of Saint Casio. The cold platter of smoked and pickled fish is the compulsory starter, but don't miss the excellent red borscht. Among main courses, chicken tabaka and chicken Kiev are bugdet wise choices; for a few dollars more there's "midnight in Moscow," a huge pork cutlet topped with plum sauce.
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