The wood-oven pies alone are worth the price of admission, and a festive occasion might demand that you splurge on the pie covered with gold leaf. Though the gold has no flavor, the cheeses heaped on top of the well-browned discus do. A salad of arugula with cheese-coated olives also deserves plaudits, as does the signature pasta paccheri alla genovese, a dish introduced to Naples by Genoese merchants in the 17th century. The sauce for the tube-shaped pasta is flavored with onions and white wine and, in a stroke of pure genius, lacks tomato sauce. The well-windowed room encourages lingering.