The wood-oven pies alone are worth the price of admission, and a festive occasion might demand that you splurge on the pie covered with gold leaf. Though the gold has no flavor, the cheeses heaped on top of the well-browned discus do. A salad of arugula with cheese-coated olives also deserves plaudits, as does the signature pasta paccheri alla genovese, a dish introduced to Naples by Genoese merchants in the 17th century. The sauce for the tube-shaped pasta is flavored with onions and white wine and, in a stroke of pure genius, lacks tomato sauce. The well-windowed room encourages lingering.
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In some neighborhoods, Italian trattorias have become as common as Greek diners once wereor maybe the real comparison is with Irish bars, which feed and liquor you at the same time. Trying to snooker the competition, each new ...