Don't expect desserts, appetizers, or ceviches at this tiny Ecuadoran lunch counter-actually, just a single big table-in the middle of a kitchen where a supremely talented cook concocts secos, "dry" soups ladled over an Andean mound of yellow rice. Go for the pungent and tomato-tinged goat, or the peanut-sauced and soft-as-a-kid-glove guatita (tripe).
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