Return with us now to the heyday of the East Village, when black-clad tenement dwellers would chow down in the region's Polish and Ukrainian restaurants on lakes of goulash (heavy on the ghoul) and mountains of mashed potatoes--for four dollars or less. Well, the price may have doubled since the '80s, but the excellence of the gravied meat remains, with your choice of two sides that run from coleslaw to shredded beets to overcooked green beans. The pierogi and potato pancakes are also fab, and don't miss the borscht, which boasts amazing dumplings stuffed with mushrooms and veal.
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