This restaurants claim to fame is chifa--the fusion cuisine Chinese immigrants to Peru invented to cater to local tastes--but Red Egg's perfunctory nod to chifa is simply to have both Chinese and Peruvian dishes on the menu. Although that's a fun exercise in novelty, you'd do better to stick with the straight-up Cantonese dim sum, which is excellent. Translucent, steamed fun gaw is stuffed with a pork-vegetable filling so fresh and lively it seems to have been chopped minutes before. Shrimp are wrapped in wide rice noodle rolls that are pleasantly chewy and elastic. The Peruvian dishes are not as good. Chicken chicharrones, for example, are breaded and fried, leaving the chicken skin inside flaccid and fatty.
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Now that this year's San Gennaro festival has stuffed its last cannoli, my neighborhood has returned to its relaxed self. While I'm all in favor of the old-country vibe surrounding most of Mulberry Street, my go-to spots around Litt...