The folks at Rolf's demonstrate a Santa's elfish work ethic in the three weeks it takes to prepare the Christmas wunderland you'll encounter when you step inside this 19th-century German tavern. Giant firs, pine garlands, illuminated stained glass, and ornaments the size of Burl Ives's head decorate every nook and cranny of this Gramercy pub, which makes merry by offering a selection of obscure seasonal German beers and schnapps with traditional German fare. Wash down a plate of potato pancakes ($9.95) with a Kaiser Ki?1/2mmel caraway schnapps ($7.50) or a half-liter of Hofbrau Oktoberfest ($8.00). It feels like a Christmas fairy tale, rosy cheeks and all. Brothers Grimm and Jack Frost, do your wurst.