Named after the Umbrian saint who loved birds and other small animals, this taquería might be East Harlem's best. You can't go wrong with the antojitos: the potato filled flautas, for example, which come heaped with greenery and crumbled cheese, or the sublime chilaquiles with green sauce-a toss of yesterday's tortilla chips with scrambled eggs. The bigger feeds keep pace, including the quarter-chicken lounging in the pumpkin seed sauce called pipian, and cemitas, big round sandwiches on seeded rolls that constitute a signature of Pueblan cooking.
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The glass refrigerator case glows mad bright in the front room, lit by a mercury-vapor bulb that makes the lined-up soft drinks phosphoresce, from the painfully orange Fanta to the grass-green, urine-yellow, and candy-apple-red Jarr...