Look up "sapid" in the dictionary, and it turns out to
mean "flavorful," which means we have a brainy restaurant on our
hands. The fare is mainly Punjabi, and mainly excellent - much better than you'd expect in a modest neighborhood Indian restaurant. You need go no further than the vegetarian dishes to find bharta, fire-roasted eggplant roughly pureed with spices, or kachori, the lentil dumplings here transformed into an agreeable chaat through addition of onions and sauces. Among larger dishes, the chicken vindaloo borders on the spectacular, every bit as spicy as you want it to be, though the interesting-sounding raan proved to be a tad boring: chewy strips of tandoori lamb tossed into a sort of salad. The dining room is spare, the servings opulently large.