Dainty cornmeal-fried oysters sit on a plateau of pureed celery root that has the texture of packed snow, in a puddle of tart tomato-seed vinaigrette. Agreeable layers of spaghetti squash and crunchy lattice potatoes buoy up a puck of salmon, crispy brown on both faces. Decorated with bold squirts of concentrated fruit and vegetable sauces, plates are violent explosions of color. The only things I can't like about this place are the tables jammed too close together and the deafening noise level.
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