Who would have thought that a gussied-up bahn-mi could be so appealing? Sidecar's version piles caramelized pork, chicken liver paté, pickled carrots and daikon on a mayo-slathered, grilled ciabatta roll. It's not going to put Ba Xuyen out of business, but it's pretty damn delicious. Other worthy diversions here include that same chicken liver paté spread thickly on crostini, brandade (salt cod whipped with potato and cream) and pristine (but pricey) oysters. The old-fashioned cocktails are also first rate, and
slightly more affordable than their fancy Manhattan brethren.
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