Bath Beach is the new Coney Island Avenue as far as great, cheap Pakistani food is concerned. Enter Silver Spoon, with the most upscale dining room of any comparable establishment. The food is unfailingly pungent and perfectly balanced, spice-wise. The garlic naan boasts fresh sliced garlic between its buttery layers rather than the usual top-strewn coating of bottled, crushed product. Even though the steam table is small-evenly divided between vegetarian and meat-bearing selections-making choices is difficult, because it all looks so good. But there's always a lush chicken biryani as a fallback. Open daily till 11:30 p.m.
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