This off-the-beaten-path mainland Greek boasts "the best souvlaki in town," but it's the gyro that keeps us coming back. The moist herby meat is ensconced in an exemplary thick pita that, as a result of the volume of meat and vegetable matter, only wraps around half the bulging sandwich. Leaving a burning sensation on the lips, the garlicky yogurt sauce puts the whole thing over the top, and the accompanying fries are as good as any in town, made from fresh potatoes with the skin still adhering. Another don't miss selection is the made-to-order feta pie.
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You come upon it unexpectedly as you near the point where Eighth Avenue dead-ends into the Gowanus Expressway, a rococo cream-colored cottage that looks like it might be inhabited by trolls. Inside, the number of decorative motifs i...