The third attempt to establish a home for one of Queens's most talented chefs has become the focus of an ongoing chowhound.com food fight. The Bangladeshi fare is often wonderful, but part of the lure of the place is finding out just how your favorite dish is going to taste on a given day, vacillating between ho-hum and cosmically good. In the latter category a few days ago was a whole fish fried in mustard oil, transformed into a beautiful picture with a heaping of shredded boiled egg, and so was the legendary spicy dal fry, a collection of well-seasoned lentils best scooped with one of the breads like onion kulcha.
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