Pleasantly located on a quiet side street and done up to look like a French bistro, Tello turns out to be Italian. Unfortunately, the offerings are of the most predictable sort, although many are done with enough panache that you'll remember them days later. We especially liked the chicken breast Tello, cooked with masses of mushrooms and rounds of good fennel sausage in a tart white-wine sauce, and the generous bowl of fettucine crammed with diverse seafood. But expect cramped tables and refractory service at this thronged spot.
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