Though Ti-An pretends to be a merely a pho palace, its menu places it among the most ambitious Vietnamese restaurants in town. Included are such French-Viet staples as banh mi sandwiches and dense beef stew served with a baguette, as well as grilled beef and pork dishes, and all sorts of Chinese-leaning soups and stir-fries. The rice-noodle crepes are exceptional, and so is the pho, concocted from a long-boiled stock laced with sweet spices that turn it a particularly dark color. Sunset Park's Chinatown is becoming a haven for Vietnamese eating establishments.
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