The glory of the strictly vegetarian menu at Tiffin Wallah-named after the dudes who deliver box lunches to offices in Indian cities-is a series of set meals called thalis that reflect four of India's vegetarian cuisines. You're probably already familiar with the northern Indian version, including vegetable curries like saag paneer and alu ghobi (selection varies). The Gujarati thali features a buttermilk soup and the fritters called kachori, while the south Indian cradles a mini masala dosa and spongy idly dumplings. Finally, a thali from the far-south region of Kerala (weekends only) includes a yogurt-thickened stew of eggplant and plantain, and a tamarind-laced tomato soup.
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A "tiffin" is a multi-layered, cylindrical metal lunch box. A "wallah" is what you'd call a guy who races on foot through traffic to deliver your tiffin. Stick them together and you get Curry Hill's latest Indian restaurant. Tiffin ...