Tony himself might be cooking your food, and if not it's Elena, at this New Utrecht lunch counter in the shadow of the elevated D line. The menu matches diner classics with down-home Italian cooking. Pick the tripe with red sauce or the juicy burger, or their protein special: cheese ravioli with meat sauce and meatballs.
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A dozen times I'd passed the storefront deep in the shadow of the W and the gates were always pulled down. Flanked by fading plywood cutouts of Coke bottle caps, the rickety sign "Luncheonette" also proclaimed the place moribund. Th...