Travertine looks like the sort of place that cares more about its DJ than its chef. The female servers have been made to dress like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman. Unch-unch-unch booms the music. "May I say a few words about the menu," says the waiter, without really asking, and proceeds to up-sell with a passion. When the food arrives, he will say, "Madam will be enjoying the lamb." Oh, will madam? The surprise is that these dishes are very solid, expertly prepared. We particularly liked a rich pig's head terrine and juicy lamb chops. Above all, don't miss the pastas, which are homemade and delicious.