Hemant Mathur has packed up his knives and decamped to Midtown at Tulsi, although he brought along several recipes that helped him make his name at Devi-both the good (a divine tandoori lamb-chop entrée) and the bad (sickly sweet Manchurian cauliflower). The upscale Indian fare includes a selection of tasty chaats and a tempting chicken cooked in pistachio sauce, among other refined dishes. Those who worshipped at Devi might leave slightly disappointed, especially given the understated furnishings, but it far surpasses the corner tikka-masala joint. Unfortunately, so do the prices.
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