This spare but rollicking spot specializes in the Balkan-style grilled meats of the former Yugoslavia. Specifically there are pljeskavicas (giant onion-laced burgers) and cevapcici (little skinless sausages of beef and lamb), both served on the steroidal pita called lepinja. The bureks--flaky filo pies--are also magnificent, including the rarely seen cabbage version that arrives coiled like a garden hose. Finally at Ukus, there are a number of small entrees, including cabbage leaves stuffed with finely minced meat, and a navy bean stew jumbled with beef jerky.
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Something a Serbian-American friend once told me stuck in my head. "In Astoria, all the former Yugoslavians live side by side. Whatever part they played in old conflicts is left behind in the old country. They all speak the same lan...