Dim sum in the evening is like a fish riding a bicycle, but here the concept works. "Rice flour rolls with vegetarian mock ham and coriander" is particularly good, pellucid white rolls with salty tidbits and an herbal kick, every bit as good as the shrimp- or pork-bearing variety usually found. A complete Cantonese menu is also tendered, the dishes often made with very fresh vegetables, though grease and corn starch can be an unwelcome diversion. Concentrate on the mushroom selections and you'll have a splendid meal. Try the algae with three kinds of mushrooms. If you haven't tasted algae, you haven't lived.
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Fo tiao qing, braised pork tendon Way back in 2009, Fork in the Road offered readers an original dim sum visual dictionary, our tool to carry with you as you seek out the best small-plate parlors in the city. It was intended to be a...