Queens' favorite banquet hall is a stone cave decorated with cherubs and other Roman statuary, making you feel like you're an extra in a kitschy movie. While the food quality is uneven, who cares? Eat the stuff that's good and pick at the stuff that isn't. In the solidly good category find a rigatoni vodka rich with cheese, and a substantial swordfish fillet heaped, in the Sicilian style, with toasted bread crumbs. The best dessert is the selection of fresh fruit.
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With all the Sikh restaurants, Ecuadorian lunch counters, and Indo-Caribbean vegetable stands beckoning from Richmond Hill, I find myself whizzing up and down Lefferts Boulevard a lot lately. Every trip passes the mammoth stone grot...