World-class dim sum awaits at World Tong. Arrive before 2 p.m. any day of the week to witness the unsurpassed parade of dumpling carts, which display pork with tree fungus wrapped in bean curd skin as wrinkly as an octogenarian's flesh, diaphanous and shimmering rice noodles stuffed with eye-poppingly large shrimp, and if you're lucky, mango pudding molded into a goldfish and sided with twin spears of ripe mango. Another "don't miss" is the bronze-skinned roast suckling pig, which comes arrayed on a bed of shredded leeks.
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For the past few years, New York has been in a dim sum slump. A decade ago, Chinatown palaces like Triple Eight and Golden Unicorn were churning out perfect har gow and shui mei for armies of diners, when suddenly, the dumplings bec...