Xunta's 30 or so tapas selections are pleasantly doctrinaire, except for a few Galician twists, like tasty empanadas of tuna and salt cod cooked as massive pies instead of turnovers. Some of the simplest are the best, like a slightly charred chorizo or a plate of dry-cured ham. More ambitious but equally delicious is a stew of scallops and white asparagus accented with wine and served in a big shell. A flaming bowl of mushrooms is brought to the table by a waiter who, we couldn't help but notice, had all the hair singed off his arm.
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