From the outside, Yong Gee (originally known as Dining Room Management Group) looks like a humble duck shop and noodle parlor, but concealed in the interior is a sumptuous dining room, where Hong Kong cuisine finds its most highfalutin’ evocations in Manhattan's Chinatown. Look no further than the pan-roasted flounder, a fish nearly two feet long presented with an imperially crisp skin and strewn with leeks. In the H.K. style, dishes are appropriated, not only from Cantonese cooking, but from other regions of China as well. The ma po bean curd is a good example, bearing all the components of its Chengdu original, but creamier and blander, and entirely lacking in Sichuan peppercorns. Other faves include southern Chinese lamb casserole (with wads of bean curd skin), and Manila clams with black bean sauce.