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New York is not much of a beer town. The Brooklyn Brewery rocks, especially its barley wine Monster, but beer is one domain where the city is outshone by upstate. The best beers made in the state are Hennepin and Ommegang, Belgian-style ales brewed in Cooperstown. And the best beer bargain in the five boroughs is to buy them by the case at 21st Street Wholesale Beer in Astoria. They come in big bottles, sealed with a cork, and pack 8.5 percent alcohol. "I'm fucked up over here," a friend said recently after just half a bottle.