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This palace of fried seafood leapfrogged over 125th Street recently into glamorous new digs. Thankfully, the fried whiting sandwich is as good as ever: three crisp, lightly breaded fillets deposited on white or whole wheat; squirt on the sauce from the phalanx of bottles on the counter. Hint: The tartar and the Tabasco make a lovely pair. At the new location, catfish plays a bigger role, and there are a couple of whole fried fish available, including porgy and pink snapper. A good number of the fish are local and sustainable, and there"s a upstairs dining room that can accommodate just about any size crowd. Note: Chicken wings are particularly large and luscious.