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Hovering near Newtown Creek, the border between Brooklyn and Queens, Acapulco specializes in urbanized Mexican food like tacos, tortas, fajitas, and huaraches--sandal-shaped masa receptacles slathered with refried beans, then freighted with shredded lettuce, fresh cheese, crema, and your choice of chicken, meat, or vegetables. There's hardly a speck of mole poblano in the place. Tacos are south-of-the-border standard, made with two soft corn tortillas, although they'll also make the hard-shell variety. As the menu patronizingly says: "For gringos and our Texan friends."