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We were blown away by a Caprese salad that was the essence of summer, with perfectly ripe tomatoes, good olive oil, sharp-smelling basil, and mozzarella as white as a snowdrift before the kids play in it. Generously turned out, pastas are another specialty. Most memorably, we liked spinach-and-cheese ravioli in a mellow walnut puree, and bucatini al amatriciana in a sauce beloved of Romans loaded down with a prodigious quantity of the cured hog jowl known as guanciale. The wine list keeps pace, many of the selections from central Italy, and, available in a quartino flask holding a quarter liter of wine, allows a pair of diners to drink whites and reds in the same meal. The setting resembles a Tuscan farmhouse.