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Go big or go home must have been Michael White's thinking when he opened the sleek Ai Fiori on the second floor of the Setai Hotel just a few months after debuting Osteria Morini. Luxury abounds on the Franco-Italian menu-begin with the butter-poached oysters topped with caviar or the "mare e monte" (a marriage of scallops, truffles, and bone marrow) before moving on to the toothsome pastas or the robust veal chop with sauce perigueux. A la carte dining can run steep (entrees hover around $40), but a $79, four-course prix fixe lets diners sample a range of dishes at a (slightly) discounted rate. But truth be told, this refined, sedate space is meant for expense-account dining.