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Named after a pop song and now a venerable 12 years old, Al Di La remains one of the most exciting Italian restaurants in the city. The menu takes regional recipes from the northern half of the country, and faithfully renders them with few needless innovations, and those that are introduced are just the kinds of embroideries you"d find in the home country. Served with a grilled toast, the Florentine-style tripe is remarkable for its rich flavor and simplicity, and the braised rabbit with olives and polenta is bunny perfection. Also worth trying are the tortelli-misshapen stuffed pouches, a type of pasta rarely seen here. Chef Anna Klinger fills them with truffled ricotta and bathes them is a simple broth. The wine list is loaded with interesting Italian bottles.