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When you don't have a lot of money but want to go to a real restaurant with real service and fantastic food, Alias's reasonably priced, three-course Sunday Supper is a great option. On other nights, the menu is constantly changing, but it's always seasonal, mostly local. The combinations are creative but always easy to enjoy, never bizarre or pretentious. Recently, a pork loin with a maple ginger glaze was accompanied by bacon mashed potatoes, and perfectly crisp roast chicken was paired with Anson Mills grit cakes. Desserts are youthfully straightforward, like dark-chocolate cookies made into ice cream sandwiches, with Il Laboratorio del Gelato's fresh mint gelato.