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As the name implies, the place really is just a kitchen, with a single table inside and another outside. Nevertheless, the Thai food is splendid, favoring the fare of Bangkok and the southern peninsula. This food tends to be rich in coconut milk, and most of the recommended curries are laced with it, including a Panang curry (get it with beef) heaped with such fresh herbs as basil and shredded lime leaves. Heavily flavored and colored with turmeric, yellow curry is earthier (pick the chicken). And don't miss getting something made with duck, or the wonderful "mock duck," a vegetarian substance that cooks up dense and fibrous. Our favorite dish: "duck Thai herbal."