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A devastating kitchen fire closed Annisa last fall after a nine-year run; now it has reopened and the food is better than ever. Roughly half the menu from before the disaster remains, including a pullet with a pig-foot dice inserted under its crisp skin, with a truffle-driven savor, and a Japanese custard dotted with morel mushrooms and gingko nuts. Newfangled stuff includes a roasted rack of lamb flaunting South African flavors, adding an extra continent to chef Anita Lo's reach. A further theme to menu is provided by a Middle-Eastern dish or two, including squab with fava beans ("Annisa" means "The Women" in Arabic). Dining is on a gently lit raised platform, and the platings are like miniature sculptures.